PARTS Mini-Sumo Robot Kit Mark II: Building the Main PCB

You will need the circuit board and all the electronics including the BASIC STAMP 1 chip set; these are located in one of the pink poly bags. The other pink poly bag contains the sensor board and it's components, which are assembled separately, so to make life easier, don't mix the two.

Be sure to work in a ventilated, well lit area, with tile or thin carpeting on the floor; thick carpets like to eat little dropped parts!


View Board Layout

Solder on the smallest electronic components first. Identify the resistors by it's color code and solder them to their location.

R2, R3, R6 - 10k resistors - brown black orange (R2 and R3 are optional if you use the sensor board included with the Mark II kit, but are mandatory if you use Sharp GP2D15 sensors)
R1, R7, R8, R9 - 330 ohm - orange orange brown (these are always used)
R4, R5 - 4.7k - yellow, purple, red (these are also always used)


View Populated Board

Next solder on capacitors C2, C3, C4, C5, these capacitors are marked with the number 104.

Solder in the BASIC STAMP 1 IC chip and the EEPROM chip paying close attention to the orientation of the notch in the IC.

The resonator RES can now be soldered in place. This provides the 4 MHz clock for the BASIC STAMP.

The LED's can be soldered in place now. The LED's are polarized, and will only work if soldered in the correct orientation. Make sure the cathode (negative) side of the LED faces the right hand side of the circuit board. The silk screen image of the LED shows the cathode as the flat side id the image.

Solder in capacitor C1 and orient the negative and positive pins correctly, the positive pin is marked on the circuit board.

The three 3 pin headers can be soldered into positions SL, SR and PC connector locations. The pins shipped with the Mark II kits stick out too long under the circuit board once they are soldered in. You should clip them off on the underside of the board, being careful to aim them away from yourself and others, as they will shoot off rapidly when clipped.

The ON/OFF switch can now be soldered to the circuit board, followed by the piezo speaker. Note: some of the piezo's leads don't quite fit in the holes provided on the circuit board. You might have to ream the holes out a bit (but not too much) to make them fit.

Next Step

  last updated 3/1/2001